What is Cross Stitch?

Cross stitch is a simple form of embroidery, where only a few stitch types are commonly used. The embroidery is usually done on a special type of fabric, where the strands form an even grid-like appearance. Cross stitch patterns are grids as well, making the transfer of the pattern to the fabric straightforward. Since the pattern has a one-to-one correspondence to the fabric grids, no marking of the fabric is necessary, and only counting of grid squares is needed. However, some cross stitch kits use stamped fabric, where instead of a grid pattern to follow, the colors to use are marked on the fabric so no counting is needed.

A cross stitch pattern shows a symbol in each square where a stitch will be made. The pattern legend indicates which color of embroidery floss to use for each symbol. The basic stitch is an ‘X’ shape, but there are a few other types too, shown below.

Common brands of embroidery floss used in cross stitch are Anchor and DMC. Both brands produce hundreds of different colors of floss in small skeins, each color given a standardized number which is referred to in patterns (such as DMC 820, which is very dark royal blue, one of my favorites!). The floss is composed of six strands. Usually two strands are used for regular stitches, and one strand for backstitching, but some patterns call for different numbers of strands. When working with the floss, a length is cut from the skein (usually 18” is a good length for handling), and the individual strands can then be separated.

With most cross stitch fabrics, a blunt tip needle with a large eye works well. Such needles are easier to thread, don’t prick your finger as often, but still slide through the fabric grid easily.

Cross Stitch Fabric

A fabric used often for cross stitch is Aida cloth, shown in Figure 1. Aida cloth has one square of fabric per one grid square on the pattern. Aida comes in various sizes, or number of squares per inch. 14 count Aida is very common, which has 14 squares per inch. Other sizes are 11 count, 16 count, 18 count, or higher.

A more delicate fabric used for cross stitch is linen. The squares are not as well defined in linen, thus making cross stitch a bit more difficult, but the end result can be more artistic, since the unworked areas of the fabric are smoother. With linen, cross stitching is often done “over 2,” which means a length of two squares of fabric grid are equivalent to one square on the pattern. A single full cross stitch will then cover four squares of fabric on linen.

When working a pattern, you could just hold the fabric in your hand, but it is better to use something to stretch the fabric taut. This makes the stitching easier, plus makes the final product more even. A embroidery hoop can be placed over the fabric, though this can create hard-to-remove wrinkles in the fabric if it is not removed from the hoop often. Stretcher bars are very common as well, where the fabric is secured and rolled around rods. A small workable region is then visible at any one time, and the fabric can be easily rolled in either direction to work other sections. Such stretchers prevent wrinkles better, and do not require you to remove the fabric until finished with the pattern.

Beginning to Stitch

To begin stitching a pattern, first find the middle of your pattern by following the triangular arrows marked on the edges of the chart. Next, find the middle of your fabric by folding it in half one way, and then the other, creasing the folds enough to see where the folds cross in the middle. Begin stitching with a color close to the middle.

Starting and Ending Threads

The beginnings and endings of thread strands are not knotted in cross stitch, but are woven through the threads on the back side of the fabric. When finishing a thread, you can simply use the needle to weave the remaining thread (a ‘tail’) beneath 3 or 4 stitches on the back side of the fabric, and then cut the thread (being careful not to cut the fabric or your stitches!). Try to keep the thread tail under the same color of stitch, to keep it from showing on the front.

When starting a thread, if you have already done other stitches, you can thread the tail through the back side first, and then bring the needle up for the first stitch, being careful not to pull the thread out until it’s secured by a few stitches. If you are just starting, with no other nearby stitches to secure your thread, you will have to keep an inch or so of a tail hanging out the back, and then stitch over that tail as you go until it is secured.

There are two other ways to secure a thread when you start that may be easier. If you are stitching with 2 strands, instead of starting with 2 strands of the same length, take one long length and fold it in half. Thread your needle at the end with 2 loose pieces, leaving the folded loop at the other end. Bring your needle up in the first stitch, but don’t pull the thread all the way through. Bring the needle down in the second part of the stitch, and then thread it through the loop and pull tight. Your thread is secured!

Another option, especially with an odd number of strands, is to tie a temporary knot in the end of the thread. Bring the threaded needle down 3-4 squares away from where you will start, letting the knot hold on the top of the fabric. Begin stitching (in the direction toward your knot), making sure to stitch over the tail as you go. After the tail of the thread is secured, you can cut off the knot on the front of the fabric, and you’re all set, with no worries about the thread pulling out before you’ve secured it.

Many times, stitches of the same color thread will not be consecutive, but spread out across the picture. You do not always have to start a new thread for each smaller region, as long as the extra thread on the back will not show through to the front. If you must pass beneath a lighter colored or blank area, then you might want to stop and secure your thread and start a new thread. Otherwise, simply weave your thread beneath any existing stitches on the back between the old region and the new region, and resume stitching. If the regions are more than 8-10 stitches apart, you may want to stop and start a new thread, since you will save thread by stopping and restarting in that case, even with the extra thread used in securing the ending and beginning.

Stitches

The basic stitch in cross stitch is the full stitch, where a complete ‘X’ is made with the thread. Begin by making a diagonally slanting line across one fabric square, as shown in the top half of Figure 2, and then make the opposite diagonal to complete the square. The first image shows the first step, where “forward slash” diagonals are made. The second image then shows the completion step, where the “backward slash” diagonals are made on top of the first stitches. The main concern is to make sure the top strand crosses in the same direction for all stitches. In other words, do the first and second diagonals in the same order always, so the top strand always ends up going in the same direction. In the examples shown here, the “backward slash” is always on top.

Note that you can form each diagonal in two ways, starting at the top or bottom of the stitch. In the bottom half of Figure 2, the numbering shows the order in which the needle can make the stitches, starting at the bottoms of the stitches. This ordering may work best for left-handed stitchers. However, you can also start at the top, as long as the diagonals are in the same order. Also, one complete stitch may be made before continuing on to the next, instead of doing the first half of multiple stitches at one time, and then going back to do the second half. Each pattern is unique, and the optimal order of stitches may be different for each. Make sure that your stitches are even, with the thread pulled to the same tautness for each. Stitching a row of half stitches first, and then completing them on the way back may make the fabric and stitches lay more evenly.

Sometimes a pattern calls for half stitches instead of full stitches. The half stitch is simply the first half of the full stitch, with only a single diagonal.

Other common stitches are the ¾ and ¼ stitches. These are shown in Figure 3. In these stitches, one of the diagonals is cut short, with the needle pulling the thread down in the middle of the square instead of at a corner. When using Aida cloth, the needle must pierce the fabric to form this stitch. When stitching “over 2” on linen, the quarter stitches are easier to do. Note that there are 4 quadrants to a fabric square, so there are 4 types each of ¾ and ¼ stitches, depending on where the short diagonal occurs.

When using linen, and stitching “over 2,” sometimes a petite stitch is called for. This is a full stitch, making a complete ‘X,’ but only over one square out of the four that make up a full stitch on linen.

Backstitching is frequently used in cross stitch patterns, giving more definition and highlighting regions after the main stitches are done. Basically, backstitching “draws” a line across the fabric. An example of backstitching is shown in Figure 4. Instead of stitching diagonals, a backstitch is formed from any corner to any other corner, making horizontal, diagonal, or vertical lines. Sometimes a stitch even extends over multiple squares, such as up one and over two stitches.

Straight stitching is also called for at times, which is similar to backstitching, but often the thread covers multiple squares at once. The needle should only go through the fabric when needed for the desired shape. For example, in Figure 4, the horizontal line segment shown at the left could be done with two backstitches, or with a single straight stitch. Backstitching gets its name because the lines are to be made in a “two steps forwards, one step back” method, where the needle is pulled up from underneath at the far end of the stitch, and then pushed down at the near end. As the stitches proceed, the back side of the fabric shows more thread than the top side, keeping the stitches even and reducing the chance of pulling the thread too tight and showing gaps through the fabric.

Specialty stitches may also be called for in a pattern, and these stitches will have diagrams shown in the particular pattern. Once example is the star stitch shown in Figure 5, where multiple squares are crossed with multiple lines, creating a star-like image. Other types of specialty stitches are the lazy daisy and the French knot.

Finishing

When all the stitching is finished, wash the fabric in cool water, using a mild liquid soap if desired, and if the fabric has been soiled (such as with oil from your hands). Rinse well. Place the fabric on a towel and roll it up with the towel to mostly dry it without disturbing the stitches. Alternately, place the fabric between two layers of towels and press to remove most of the water. While the fabric is still damp, place it face down on a towel and, if desired, place another thin towel on top. Press the fabric lightly with a warm iron. You can also lightly iron the front side of the fabric, being careful not to touch the embroidered floss areas. Let it dry completely, and then frame or finish as desired.

Here's a short list of some other websites that provide cross stitch instructions:

• Needlework Tips and Techniques - Learn how to cross stitch
• crossstitch.about.com - Learn how to cross stitch
• Embroidery Methods - Beginner Cross Stitch